The Ray is a new limited edition watch on the scene, and it claims to be the “first ever green timepiece” available.  Frankly I have my doubts, but let’s get into it nevertheless.

Made from sustainable harvested ebony wood for its high density and durability, and using automatic movement instead of batteries, the watch has a 5 year warranty, which means it will probably last a long time if you take care of it. This isn’t really exceptional, though.  Most automatic watches last forever (well-made ones) if you take proper care of their mechanics. I’m also not sure I follow the reasoning behind making a watch from rare wood, but I digress.

Only 1,000 of these watches are available worldwide as of right now, which might explain the $500 price tag. Apparently the entire design process, even down to the method of shipment of the raw materials, was considered to lighten its ecological footprint.

Eco-Points of The Ray:

Real ebony wood sourced from sustainable managed forests, which means that for every tree used another is planted. The case and links are from solid chunks of wood, not laminate!This wood was chosen for its high density and durable characteristics.100% recyclable anti-allergy 316L stainless steel 100% recyclable aluminum 100% recyclable mineral crystal 100% solvent free links, 27 jewel stainless steel and brass automatic movement.

An automatic movement watch needs no batteries, which reduces waste and extends the life of the product. A traditional battery operated movement has a life of 18 months compared to the endless potential of a mechanical movement.

5 Year Warranty

The Ray is handcrafted, which they say reduces the amount of oil consumed during manufacturing, and is packaged in recycled cardboard designed to use 30% less material (though less material than what, the website fails to mention).

While it has a lot of excellent features, there are still some issues with it – such as using ebony wood (while the particular wood used here may be being sustainably harvested, is still a highly controversial choice) instead of a more sustainable and locally sourced wood, and using recyclable metals instead of recycled metals. For every pro there is a con and vice versa.

I want to talk, if I may, about a classic entry from Roger Dubuis.  This watch is both iconic and expensive, but for me it goes beyond the fact that it’s expensive.  This watch is an absolute classic.  I’m referring, of course, to Roger Dubuis’ Golden Square and the myriad variations that go with this model.  Some are better looking than others, but regardless of which variation you’re looking at, you can feel the quality and easily see why the watch has become a legend.

The Roger Dubuis Golden Square is a retro square watch available with enamel or carbon fiber dials. The Golden Square comes in an automatic, sub seconds, dual time zone, tourbillon and perpetual calendar version. The Roger Dubuis Golden Square has two case sizes, a 34mm and a 40mm.  Between these two, given my wrist size, I prefer to the larger 40mm version for more impact.

In only two decades since its founding in 1998, Roger Dubuis has produced instant classics in both mens and ladies varieties in all shapes and sizes.  But they have, without a doubt, had the most impact with their square watch models.  Revolutionary to be sure, there is a feature combination offered to suit anyone on the planet.  Anyone that is that can afford to spend $30,000+ on a watch.

You don’t have to be a billionaire businessman to own a Roger Dubuis, but you do need to have a sense of style and the presence to carry it off.  Which is why I don’t own one, but hey, maybe someday.

Using the revolutionary technology of gears with elastic toothing, the movement is also equipped with a three-level going-train comprising an interior toothing (patented by Agenhor SA). The finely decorated movement features the “1764″ secret signature appearing as an openworked engraving on one of its wheel bars. The entire complicated movement is driven by the famous 7-day power-reserve movement produced by Jaquet SA exclusively for Arnold & Son.

The company produces only limited edition of this watch where only 25 pieces are made with platinum, or white gold, and palladium alloy. The case is 45mm in diameter with a transparent caseback made of sapphire crystal. Within its white dial there are many indicators and counters. Its moon phase located at 9 is calculated base on 29.5 days with a true visible face of the moon. There is also the perpetual calendar where the date counter is presented at 4, and the month and leap year is indicated at 1.

The True North Perpetual can provide double equation of time where it is able to show the time difference between true solar time and mean solar time. This indication is placed at 7 where it is presented in minutes. It needs to incorporate the true solar time dial mechanism to allow speed in its calculation. It is the first watch to indicate the true solar time at a particular place and also present the true geographical North at noon solar time. The 24 hour hand with a solar shape can assist in indicating the second time zone or local time zone simply by adjusting the true Solar Time against the outer dial ring after correcting the difference in location. The hand is adjusted with the pusher at 10.

Like I said, this watch is really something. The next time you’re looking to drop $100k or so on a new timepiece, check out the True North.

Vacheron Constantin is a company steeped in tradition, even in Geneva, where long-time watchmakers are a part of the local culture. Vacheron Constantin is the oldest watch company in Geneva, as the company was founded in 1755, over 250 years ago! In the years since then, the company has become famous for not only making the most expensive watch in history (the Kallista, worth over $10 million), but also a long history of quality timepieces with both technical and artistic merits to spare.

The company was founded by Jean-Mark Vacheron, a 24-year old watchmaker who wanted to make elegant timepieces that stood out for their quality. He ran the company until thirty years later, when his son Abraham took over. Abraham was able to navigate the company through economic crises caused by such volatile periods as the French Revolution, which is no small feat.

By the time the third generation of Vacheron men had taken over (in the form of Jacques Barthelemy Vacheron), it was realized that a partner was needed for the financial future of the company. In 1819, Francois Constantin became a partner, and the company adopted the name that has stood for over 190 years since.

Francois Constantin took a role as a traveling marketer and salesman of the company’s watches, and cherished his position and the flamboyant lifestyle he led as a result. Constantin was able to spread the company’s work overseas to North America and many other areas, and was known to say, “Do better when possible…and it is always possible!”

The Vacheron family and Constantin were not the only people responsible for the company’s early success. Georges-Auguste Leschot was the genius behind using machines to produce certain watch components, which at first earned him the ridicule of fellow watchmakers. However, his measures led to savings that Vacheron and Constantin passed on to consumers, which allowed the company to sell their watches for less than the competition without sacrificing quality. At the same time, Leschot insisted that the parts all still be worked on by hand, and watchmakers were able to focus their attention on the important tasks, which fabrication of component parts were done by machine.

In the time since then, the company has shown that it is never afraid to do things differently. For instance, when Charles Vacheron died at age 25, Laure Vacheron-Pernessin (Charles’ widow) and Catherine-Etienne Vacheron (widow of Jacques Barthelemy Vacheron) took over to guide the company successfully into the 20^th century.

During this time, the company bounced back from declining sales in the late 19^th century, as they capitalized on the increasing public demand of wristwatches. Of course, they still also produced pocket watches, which were of high enough quality as to be presented to royalty such as Egypt’s King Fouad I. Even through the Great Depression and World War II, the company persevered, with Georges Ketterer assuming majority ownership and supervising the company to a renaissance of sorts. The Chronometre Royale and other great watches were made under Ketterer’s supervision.

Now, Vacheron Constantin produces almost 20,000 watches per year, including popular models such as Overseas, and Les Historiques, which are modeled after classic designs found in the mid-20^th century. The company also creates Tourbillon watches and other technical watches, which show Vacheron Constantin’s continued pursuit of excellence in the craft of watchmaking.

Patek Philippe watches have been said by many to be the “Rolls Royce of watches”, because of the brand’s devotion to craftsmanship, exclusivity and utter perfection. For over 170 years now, Patek Philippe has represented the gold standard of watchmaking, which is a fact recognized by collectors, dealers and enthusiasts alike.

The company came from an unassuming beginning, as Antoine Norbert de Patek and Francois Czapek decided to go into business together in 1839, with the name of Patek, Czapek & Co. Patek had briefly considered becoming an artist, but had instead become taken with overseeing the making of high-quality movements. Meanwhile, Czapek was a watchmaker of Czech and Polish ancestry.

The first five years of the company went fairly well, but things changed when Patek met Jean Adrien Philippe, a French immigrant who had already constructed a flat pocket watch that could be wound and set by the crown without need for a key. Patek had all but dissolved his partnership with Czapek already, and formed Patek & Co. in 1845. Six years later, Patek reorganized the firm as Patek Philippe & Co., as a way of recognizing the success the company found thanks to Philippe’s brilliant innovations.

This partnership went on until Patek’s death in 1877 (Philippe died 17 years later). Their partnership was a success because Patek was willing to travel all over the world to promote the young company, even though doing so was a very dangerous proposition in those days. Philippe would stay in Geneva, focusing on the technical innovations that Patek was introducing to those that he met.

When the two founders had passed away, three long-time employees became partners to ensure the company’s continued success. In 1910, Patek Philippe watches started to feature ebauches built in-house, and continued to put forth efforts similar to Patek’s by putting forth a proud face to the company, by building a lavish showroom and entertaining visits from the powerful and wealthy.

Of course, the Great Depression affected Patek Philippe like it did many other luxury watchmakers, which led to Jean Pfister being hired as general manager. This followed the sale of the company to Charles and Jean Stern, owners of the company that had supplied dials to Patek Philippe in the past.

The changes were not a bad thing, as Pfister moved towards having Patek Philippe controlling all aspects of the production of their watches. With models such as the Calatrava, the financial side of the company picked up the pace again. Pfister oversaw a period of great innovation until 1958, which Henri Stern took his place. Stern continued to grow the company while not deviating from its founding principles. Through his efforts, the firm was able to withstand the crisis that much of the industry was troubled by in the 1970’s.

Philippe Stern now runs the company, and has overseen the introduction of such designs as the Gondolo series. He also has stated that the company will not sell out to a conglomerate and will remain family-owned, as he is already grooming his own son, Thierry, to take over the reins one day. The Stern family has been successful in continuing the tradition begun by Patek and Philippe, and there are no signs of the company’s commitment to technological innovation and craftsmanship ever wavering.

Jacob & Co. is definitely a relatively new company in the watchmaking business, as it has only been around for just over 20 years. However, the passion and exquisite designs of Jacob Arabo, who founded the company in 1986, have allowed the company to stand alongside watchmakers with as many as 200 years of experience in the watchmaking business.

Jacob Arabo’s story began as a young Russian boy with a love of jewelry who immigrated to the United States as a 16-year old. Arabo immediately took jewelry design courses and then moved on to designing unique pieces in the “Diamond District” of New York for jewelry companies and private clients. This led to the formation of Jacob & Co., which immediately became the biggest up-and-coming brand in jewelry, thanks to the buzz from such high-profile clients as Whitney Houston, Elton John and Bono.

At that time, Jacob & Co. were known for their innovative designs that utilized diamonds and other jewels to make stunning unique pieces, but in 2002, Jacob Arabo decided to use the recognition of his brand to launch his company into the timepiece industry, as well. The Five Time Zone collection consisted of the first offerings from Jacob & Co., which featured bold, primary colors that stood out from other luxury designs. He said that he was inspired to create these first watches by the fast-paced lifestyles of his client, such as David Beckham, Naomi Campbell and Justin Timberlake.

Following the success of the Five Time Zone collection, Jacob & Co. followed with other models, including the Automatic Chronograph line, which symbolized Jacob & Co.’s further progress into more sophisticated movements as well as designs. The Automatic Chronograph line was just as well-received as the Five Time Zone collection, which only expanded the perception of Jacob & Co. as a watchmaking company as well as a custom jewelry maker. Arabo also took the time to diversify his initial line of watches with softer colors and diamond accents.

The first true masterpiece of Jacob & Co.’s timepiece manufacturing exploits was the Five Time Zone “The World Is Yours” watch. The dial formed a world map by using diamonds of different colors and styles to form an accurate globe of continents and oceans. The watch won a 2006 Travel & Leisure design award for its creativity and artful elegance.

Jacob & Co. wanted to show that they could produce more than just beautiful designs, so two non-diamond timepieces were introduced a few years ago, both of which featured astounding technical innovations. The H-24 Five Time Zone Automatic and the World GMT both combine time zone technology with an automatic movement, while covering time in up to 32 additional cities, which is all driven by a single movement. Then, there was 2005’s limited-edition Rainbow Tourbillon collection, which integrated a tourbillion device with Jacob & Co.’s signature multiple time zone features.

Jacob & Co. have been able to gain ground with under ten years of watchmaking under their belts by marrying technological innovations with award-winning styles and elegance. The commitment to excellence already shown by Arabo’s visions makes the world excited to see what will come from the company in the years to come.

In contrast to many luxury watchmakers, Breitling is known just as much, if not more, for technical pieces that have been relied upon by everyone from divers and astronauts to pilots and drivers. For instance, the Emergency watch features an emergency transmission feature, allowing wearers to send out a distress signal that rivals beacons found on aircrafts. This feature is actually credited for saving the lives of 13 people in 1995, for example.

The company itself was founded by Léon Breitling in 1884, who set the foundation for the company’s continued success by a focus on technical perfection until his death in 1914. Fortunately for admirer’s of his work, his son, Gaston picked up where he left off, even creating the world’s first wrist watch chronograph in 1915. This was when pilots first started really taking interest in Breitling pieces, as they found that the watches made navigation and flying in general much easier.

Gaston decided to turn the company over to his own son (Willy) just nine years after Léon’s death. Like his father before him, Willy did the Breitling name proud by convincing the British Air Force to use Breitling to supply watches to all of their pilots, which really helped to spread the Breitling name. Before long, pilots from Europe to the United States were taking advantage of these high-quality watches. Also, in 1934, a forerunner to the modern chronograph was incorporated into Breitling watches, as the second return-to-zero function was included in Breitling offerings.

The Navitimer chronograph, designed for use by aviators, was unveiled in the 1950’s, and allowed pilots to measure speed as well as fuel consumption. This timepiece was only further proof of the Breitling pursuit of excellence as the years passed.

In 1962, another milestone in the Breitling family history occurred, as the Cosmonaught wrist watch was worn by Scott Carpenter into space, who found the piece to be outstandingly accurate throughout the flight, which only increased awareness even further of the excellent timepieces bearing the Breitling name.

Unfortunately, some of the same financial difficulties endured by other Swiss watchmakers in the 1970’s endangered the Breitling brand’s future. Willy Breitling, who had been in control of the company for fifty years, allowed Ernest Schneider to take control of the company, with the knowledge that the Schneider family understood the Breitling vision and would continue to preserve it while looking towards innovation in the future.

The family has done so, which is proven by the success of not only the Emergency watches, but also the Chronomat, which is one of the most successful and popular wristwatches found these days. Then there are other astounding pieces of technology, such as the Avenger Seawolf watch, which is water resistant to a staggering 10,000 feet.

For over 125 years, Breitling watches have symbolized technical innovation and functional elegance, all while persevering through the challenges and changes that have emerged. It is certain that Breitling watches will continue to help set the standard of modern watchmaking for years to come.

The legendary luxury watches bearing the Breguet name have long captivated collectors and laypersons alike. Along with being a vital part of European culture, Breguet timepieces have been hugely popular internationally for years and years, as well. How far does Breguet’s legacy of quality and amazing elegance go? How about over two hundred years, dating back to 1775?

That was the year when Abraham-Louis Breguet founded what would become one of the most well-known luxury watch manufacturers in the world. After Breguet’s wedding to a daughter of a well-off French family, Breguet was able to open his own workshop using the dowry that he received. Of course, Breguet was not simply a man with ambitions and some money in his pocket. He had completed an apprenticeship as a watchmaker and spent time studying mathematics, as well. Among his early successes included none other than Louis XVI buying several of his pieces, as he was taken aback by the self-winding design Breguet had innovated.

The tendency of Breguet’s works to charm the rich and powerful gave his company a great start, and his own technical genius ensured that the admiration would continue. The self-winding movement that Perrelet created was perfected by Breguet, and the young man also invented shock resistance that allowed his pocket watches to resist damage from falling to the ground. He also used his ingenuity to create a pocket watch that chimed at certain intervals, so that people could tell time when they couldn’t read their watches, such as in the dark.

All of this paled in comparison to the tourbillion, which even today can only be replicated by the most skilled watchmakers in the world. Breguet had realized that since pocket watches were carried vertically, the force of gravity could lead to deviations in the timekeeping itself, and wanted to ensure that his pocket watches would be precisely accurate, no matter how they were positioned or carried.

Brequet’s solution was to develop what amounted to a clock within the clock, as the balance and escapement turned on one axle within the movement, which was successful in eliminating inaccuracies cause by changing the position of the pocket watch, and instantly gave accuracy similar to a chronometer. As a result, Breguet continued to succeed and was a personal favorite of Napoleon himself, who loved Breguet’s watches.

Of course, Breguet’s innovations, which also included a perpetual calendar and moon phase indicator, led to not only imitators, but also counterfeiters, which was extremely rare at the time for even the most successful watchmakers. As a result, a “secret signature” was created on the dial to ensure that someone looking through a loupe could tell whether the watch was genuine or not. Serial numbers given to each watch produced and sold also provided a method of verifying authenticity.

Of course, Breguet’s legacy lives on even now, more than two hundred years after he started the company. In 1970, the company was bought by Jacques and Pierre Chaumet, two brothers who were jewelers that wanted to restore the kind of prestige once associated with Breguet’s pieces.

They have succeeded by having only watches built by the most talented watchmakers, with little touches such as hand-engraved silver dials, along with more casual pieces, such as the “Marine” watch. The fact that today’s offerings are just as respected and admired as the originals were in their time is a testament to the staying power of Breguet’s vision.

Jaeger-LeCoultre is one of the most famous and prestigious watchmakers in the world, but the company actually tarted out by producing movements for other watch manufacturers, such as Audemars Piguet and IWC. Of course, those brands themselves are very highly regarded, which is a testament to the quality of work done by Jaeger-LeCoultre. Since that time, Jaeger-LeCoultre has gone on to create such amazing timepieces as the Reverso, and it’s clear that the manufacturer has earned its own way to its prestigious place in the world of watchmaking.

In 1833, Antoine LeCoultre opened a modest factory in Le Sentier. The son of a watchmaker, LeCoultre was a gifted watchmaker himself, as well as a brilliant inventor. Just over ten years after the first factory opened, LeCoultre invented the millionometer, which could use measurements accurately to as little as one thousandth of a millimeter. This led to precise components and amazing accuracy in the company’s watches.

This innovation was also indicative of LeCoultre’s motto, “we must base our experience on science.” He used this philosophy to focus on precise movements for his watches, and this is what led some of the premier watch factories in Switzerland to depend on LeCoultre’s movements, parts and tools.

Even the great Patek Philippe was impressed enough with LeCoultre movements to use them until 1910, when they started to build their own from scratch. In the first twenty years of the 20^th century, 40,000 movements were produced, which led to a lot of profit for Jaeger-LeCoultre.

Where did the Jaeger part of Jaeger-LeCoultre come in? That was in 1925, when David LeCoultre (grandson of the company’s founder) merged with Edmond Jaeger’s company, which supplied watch movements to the likes of Cartier. Thus, Jaeger-LeCoultre was born. Luckily, the company did not rest upon its laurels, and instead continued to innovate their pieces, including stainless steel cases and the lightest mechanical movement in the world (less than a gram!).

The Reverso, which is perhaps Jaeger-LeCoultre’s most famous watch, was introduced in 1931, with its distinctive ability to be turned 180 degrees within the case. The public immediately loved the Reverso, even if economic conditions of that era kept it from being as widely profitable as it could have been.

Years later, an Italian watch dealer visited Jaeger-LeCoultre’s factory in the 1960’s and saw some of the Reverso watches, and decided to purchase them. They sold so quickly that the model itself was resurrected, and to this day Jaeger-LeCoultre’s most popular watch is the Reverso.

Other models, such as the Memovox, Atmos Clock, Futurematic and more have helped Jaeger-LeCoultre to thrive over the years, as well. Innovations of the company, such as the world’s thinnest automatic, have been used by peers such as Audemars Piguet.

Of course, the quality of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s pieces also has led to so much of the company’s success. It’s nice to know that Jaeger-LeCoultre still produces all of its own components in-house and by hand, with an emphasis on quality control. Look at the Master Control watches, for instance, which each undergo one thousand hours of assembly and testing! It’s clear that with this kind of craftsmanship and attention to detail, Jaeger-LeCoultre will continue to be one of the biggest names in watchmaking.

IWC is one of the leading watch manufacturers in Switzerland for good reason, as the Schaffhausen-based company has always led the way with dashing and breathtaking chronometry. Famous models such as “Da Vinci”, “Grande Complication”, “Ingenieur” (and other diving watches that can descend safely to 2000 meters) are just a few examples of the outstanding quality provided by IWC. That’s not all, though- IWC is also known for pilots watches and wonderful pocket watches, which are a company tradition going back to IWC’s formation in 1868.

The company’s initials stand for International Watch Co., which was founded in Schaffhausen by an American engineer from Boston, of all people. Florentine Ariosto Jones established the company far from western Switzerland, where many of the top watchmaking companies have historically been located. The founder based some of his decision on the new hydroelectric power station that powered his machines, which he used to build mechanical movements that met perfection and found a captivated international market.

Florentine Ariosto Jones worked with watchmakers that had been in Schaffhausen for years, as archives from the area’s history date watchmaking back to the 16^th century and possibly even earlier. This meant that Schaffhausen may not have been such an unlikely place to start IWC after all, and the company immediately took their creations in bold and daring directions. An example of this is the pocket watch the company made in 1885 (the Pallweber pocket watch), which had a digital display and is an extremely valuable collector’s item to this day.

While pocket watches are what IWC started with on its path to watchmaking greatness, the company was more than willing to branch out and accept new ways of doing things. At the turn of the century, IWC was among the very first to embrace the wristwatch, which was coming into style at the time. IWC had to develop completely original movements for the wristwatch, but it paid off, even as the company continued to incorporate pocket watch movements into them as larger-sized wristwatches became popular in the 1930’s. The Portuguese line of IWC watches is a great example of the oversized watch style that the company helped to pioneer.

Even now, IWC’s factory in Schaffhausen is the only watch factory that is found in eastern Switzerland. This only reignites the company’s passion for watchmaking and the desire to continue its own tradition in that area of the country. IWC has its own training center (established in 1968) which has helped to ensure that only the best watchmakers represent the company.

The company took a new approach during the turbulent period of the 1970’s when many Swiss watchmakers were having trouble, deciding to expand their focus to mechanical watches and innovative men’s designs. The following quote used in IWC’s advertising made their focus obvious: “Since 1868. And for as long as there are men.”

Today, the company’s employees, of which there are less than 400, continue to take IWC into the future with great pride. Anyone that owns a timepiece made by this prestigious manufacturer can attest to the tradition that this company has built.