Using the revolutionary technology of gears with elastic toothing, the movement is also equipped with a three-level going-train comprising an interior toothing (patented by Agenhor SA). The finely decorated movement features the “1764″ secret signature appearing as an openworked engraving on one of its wheel bars. The entire complicated movement is driven by the famous 7-day power-reserve movement produced by Jaquet SA exclusively for Arnold & Son.

The company produces only limited edition of this watch where only 25 pieces are made with platinum, or white gold, and palladium alloy. The case is 45mm in diameter with a transparent caseback made of sapphire crystal. Within its white dial there are many indicators and counters. Its moon phase located at 9 is calculated base on 29.5 days with a true visible face of the moon. There is also the perpetual calendar where the date counter is presented at 4, and the month and leap year is indicated at 1.

The True North Perpetual can provide double equation of time where it is able to show the time difference between true solar time and mean solar time. This indication is placed at 7 where it is presented in minutes. It needs to incorporate the true solar time dial mechanism to allow speed in its calculation. It is the first watch to indicate the true solar time at a particular place and also present the true geographical North at noon solar time. The 24 hour hand with a solar shape can assist in indicating the second time zone or local time zone simply by adjusting the true Solar Time against the outer dial ring after correcting the difference in location. The hand is adjusted with the pusher at 10.

Like I said, this watch is really something. The next time you’re looking to drop $100k or so on a new timepiece, check out the True North.

Mondaine Men's Official Swiss Railways Sport II Chronograph

My girlfriend and I are spending a few days in New York City right now for Valentine’s Day.  So far it has been a wonderful trip (her first to the Big Apple), and it just got even more wonderful with a trip to the massive 4-floor Tourneau.  She purchased a new Mondaine Sport II Chronograph for me!  At 42mm it’s the perfect size, and I just love the styling.  I have seen this watch in pictures quite a few times, but in person, it’s even better looking.

A somewhat esoteric brand, Mondaine has been around since 1944 when they became the official manufacturer of clocks for the Swiss railroad.  Now though they have taken that same style and function and applied it to wristwatches.  Even though it utilizes a Quartz movement, which some may say is less ‘luxurious,’ this watch is a looker and a well-made one at that.  If you’re in the market for a sub-$500 chronograph that no one else will be wearing, you might want to try one of these on.  You’ll buy it…I promise.

Ernst Benz Lunar Chronograph

As I am sure everyone has noticed, Ernst Benz has been getting a lot of attention over the last couple of years.  It started with several endorsements by famed athletes, musicians and a superstar chef, but are they here to stay?

To be honest I’m not quite sure what is so great about them.  Their watches remind me a little bit of Tutima but with less originality.  They look like a Swatch; I’m expected to pay $5k+ for a Swatch?  I think not.

It just goes to show you how valuable celebrity endorsements can really be.  I doubt that Ernst Benz would be on anyone’s radar if it weren’t for good media coverage.  To their credit, though, they do have quite a good marketing arm behind them.

Zenith Chronomaster XXT Open

Well since tax time will soon be upon us, I thought I would write about what I might buy IF I weren’t getting raped by the IRS this year. The verdict? I would buy a Zenith Chronomaster XXT Open with a black leather band and silver face. Why you ask? Well here are my reasons:

1) It’s Unusual: I have never in my life come across anyone wearing an XXT. I know many of you probably have, but this watch is rare, and I appreciate that.

2) I can actually afford it (or could afford it if I weren’t getting raped by the government). I don’t know how many of you remember, but these watches were running $8K plus just a couple years ago.

3) Quality: in-house movements like the El Primero are hard to come by. This isn’t a company that buys movements wholesale and then gussies them up with a fancy case and face. The XXT has both of these, but underneath lies a quality movement that, in my humble opinion, is worth quite a bit more than $5,800.

4) It looks like a million dollars. Holy God can I really get a watch this handsome for $5,800? It seems wrong.

5) Versatility: Whether I’m at a dinner party or going to the grocery store, this watch works. Ok it may be a little too fancy for the grocery store, but it’s not overboard. It just works people!

So in the end I can’t afford to buy this magnificent timepiece, but rest assured, if the IRS didn’t exist, I’d be an XXT owner!

Royal Oak Offshore - White and Blue

Royal Oak Offshore Survivor - Black

Don’t get me wrong, I love Audemars Piguet.  I think their watches – at least their standard product line – are some of the most innovative and best-looking on the market.  For that matter I have always loved the Royal Oak Offshore!  That said I think it’s about time that Audemars Piguet started concentrating on something new rather than four-thousand ridiculous iterations of the tried and true ROO.  The latest is the Royal Oak Offshore Survivor – a titanium, ceramic and rubber beast that is not only ugly but also outrageously expensive.  Who buys these things?

We’ve had the T3 version, the Jay-Z version and now they have just gone crazy.  For my taste the original black/blue with white dial will work just fine.  Take all of your fancy versions that cost $500k+ and go have a fancy party for billionaires!  Now there may be a rich guy out there who buys each and every one of these versions, but I seriously doubt that they sell very many of these monstrosities.

Sorry I guess I’m just in a bad mood…maybe I’m just jealous, because I don’t have $500k to drop on a watch.  Regardless, Audemars Piguet, do something original!  That is all for now.

I’m not one given to histrionics when it comes to watches.  That said I am serious when I say the new Gransport Regatta from Chronographe Suisse & Cie might be the best looking timepiece I’ve ever come across.  Certainly at $11,000+ USD a pop, it isn’t the most affordable watch in the world, but I’ve never been so tempted to let go of eleven big ones on a whim before in my life.

I’ll tell you why I love it so much in one word: masculinity.  Take the coolest of the vintage military watches from Bulova or Omega, combine it with the newest and most fashionable Blancpain and you’ve got the Gransport Regatta.  Tell me I’m wrong…

Regardless of what you think, the simple yet elegant design of this piece must be admired.  The addition of a fabric strap is a very nice touch, easily setting this watch apart from any other.  If I had just avoided Starbucks lattes altogether over the last six years, I might just have enough on hand to purchase this beauty.  That said good luck getting one…they’re limited edition.