The Ray is a new limited edition watch on the scene, and it claims to be the “first ever green timepiece” available.  Frankly I have my doubts, but let’s get into it nevertheless.

Made from sustainable harvested ebony wood for its high density and durability, and using automatic movement instead of batteries, the watch has a 5 year warranty, which means it will probably last a long time if you take care of it. This isn’t really exceptional, though.  Most automatic watches last forever (well-made ones) if you take proper care of their mechanics. I’m also not sure I follow the reasoning behind making a watch from rare wood, but I digress.

Only 1,000 of these watches are available worldwide as of right now, which might explain the $500 price tag. Apparently the entire design process, even down to the method of shipment of the raw materials, was considered to lighten its ecological footprint.

Eco-Points of The Ray:

Real ebony wood sourced from sustainable managed forests, which means that for every tree used another is planted. The case and links are from solid chunks of wood, not laminate!This wood was chosen for its high density and durable characteristics.100% recyclable anti-allergy 316L stainless steel 100% recyclable aluminum 100% recyclable mineral crystal 100% solvent free links, 27 jewel stainless steel and brass automatic movement.

An automatic movement watch needs no batteries, which reduces waste and extends the life of the product. A traditional battery operated movement has a life of 18 months compared to the endless potential of a mechanical movement.

5 Year Warranty

The Ray is handcrafted, which they say reduces the amount of oil consumed during manufacturing, and is packaged in recycled cardboard designed to use 30% less material (though less material than what, the website fails to mention).

While it has a lot of excellent features, there are still some issues with it – such as using ebony wood (while the particular wood used here may be being sustainably harvested, is still a highly controversial choice) instead of a more sustainable and locally sourced wood, and using recyclable metals instead of recycled metals. For every pro there is a con and vice versa.

I want to talk, if I may, about a classic entry from Roger Dubuis.  This watch is both iconic and expensive, but for me it goes beyond the fact that it’s expensive.  This watch is an absolute classic.  I’m referring, of course, to Roger Dubuis’ Golden Square and the myriad variations that go with this model.  Some are better looking than others, but regardless of which variation you’re looking at, you can feel the quality and easily see why the watch has become a legend.

The Roger Dubuis Golden Square is a retro square watch available with enamel or carbon fiber dials. The Golden Square comes in an automatic, sub seconds, dual time zone, tourbillon and perpetual calendar version. The Roger Dubuis Golden Square has two case sizes, a 34mm and a 40mm.  Between these two, given my wrist size, I prefer to the larger 40mm version for more impact.

In only two decades since its founding in 1998, Roger Dubuis has produced instant classics in both mens and ladies varieties in all shapes and sizes.  But they have, without a doubt, had the most impact with their square watch models.  Revolutionary to be sure, there is a feature combination offered to suit anyone on the planet.  Anyone that is that can afford to spend $30,000+ on a watch.

You don’t have to be a billionaire businessman to own a Roger Dubuis, but you do need to have a sense of style and the presence to carry it off.  Which is why I don’t own one, but hey, maybe someday.

Using the revolutionary technology of gears with elastic toothing, the movement is also equipped with a three-level going-train comprising an interior toothing (patented by Agenhor SA). The finely decorated movement features the “1764″ secret signature appearing as an openworked engraving on one of its wheel bars. The entire complicated movement is driven by the famous 7-day power-reserve movement produced by Jaquet SA exclusively for Arnold & Son.

The company produces only limited edition of this watch where only 25 pieces are made with platinum, or white gold, and palladium alloy. The case is 45mm in diameter with a transparent caseback made of sapphire crystal. Within its white dial there are many indicators and counters. Its moon phase located at 9 is calculated base on 29.5 days with a true visible face of the moon. There is also the perpetual calendar where the date counter is presented at 4, and the month and leap year is indicated at 1.

The True North Perpetual can provide double equation of time where it is able to show the time difference between true solar time and mean solar time. This indication is placed at 7 where it is presented in minutes. It needs to incorporate the true solar time dial mechanism to allow speed in its calculation. It is the first watch to indicate the true solar time at a particular place and also present the true geographical North at noon solar time. The 24 hour hand with a solar shape can assist in indicating the second time zone or local time zone simply by adjusting the true Solar Time against the outer dial ring after correcting the difference in location. The hand is adjusted with the pusher at 10.

Like I said, this watch is really something. The next time you’re looking to drop $100k or so on a new timepiece, check out the True North.

Bell & Ross BR01 Phantom

I have to say that when I saw my first Bell & Ross watch, I was not impressed.  It was a BR02 model, and I found it ugly and unappealing.  HOWEVER after Bell & Ross decided to start making instrument-esque square cases with faces to match, I started to fall in love.  I have been lucky enough to try on one of their BR01 Phantom models, and let me tell you, it’s stunning.  That said it’s a little out of my price range at $5k (the watch pictured is actually the tourbillon version, which is well over $100k).

At 46mm square with a “diamond-like” finish, it’s quite impressive.  You should definitely check one of these out the next time you’re at your local watch boutique.  The only other thing I can say competes with these in my mind, at least when it comes to practical masculinity, is the Concord C1 series.

Mondaine Men's Official Swiss Railways Sport II Chronograph

My girlfriend and I are spending a few days in New York City right now for Valentine’s Day.  So far it has been a wonderful trip (her first to the Big Apple), and it just got even more wonderful with a trip to the massive 4-floor Tourneau.  She purchased a new Mondaine Sport II Chronograph for me!  At 42mm it’s the perfect size, and I just love the styling.  I have seen this watch in pictures quite a few times, but in person, it’s even better looking.

A somewhat esoteric brand, Mondaine has been around since 1944 when they became the official manufacturer of clocks for the Swiss railroad.  Now though they have taken that same style and function and applied it to wristwatches.  Even though it utilizes a Quartz movement, which some may say is less ‘luxurious,’ this watch is a looker and a well-made one at that.  If you’re in the market for a sub-$500 chronograph that no one else will be wearing, you might want to try one of these on.  You’ll buy it…I promise.

IWC Portofino Vintage 1984

This post is special in that it’s designed to annoy someone I know.  This individual has good taste for the most part but absolutely hates moon phases, especially on men’s watches.  So I thought I would write something just for him.

The IWC Portofino Vintage 1984 was released recently, and I just can’t enough of it.  At 46mm it’s a bit of a monster, but this monster possesses elegant looks and more class than you can shake a stick at.  Throw in a hand-wound movement (46-hour power reserve) and a moon phase at twelve o’clock, and you have the makings of a instant classic.  Of course part of the reason it’s an instant classic is because it’s based on the Portofino of old, a classic in its own right.  Nevertheless the newer version adds something modern without taking away from the original foundation laid by previous models…the available color schemes, the case materials, the movement and the band all play the role of vintage while also appealing to the tastes of today’s watch buyer (except for those who hate moon phases).

IWC also released several other “Vintage” models along with the Portofino including the Da Vinci, Aquatimer, Ingenieur, Portuguese and Pilot.  Take a look, but I think you’ll find I’m right when I say that the Portofino is by far the most successful of these re-releases.  At $12,500 for the steel version, the IWC Portofino Vintage 1984 is definitely a steal if you ask me.

Concord C1 Men's Gravity Tourbillon

Who decides when a watch brand is dead?  I am not sure, but what I am sure of  is that I’m glad it’s not me.  As far as I was concerned, Concord was on its way out.  Their watch sales were in the tank.  Their product lines were suffering from a horrible lack of vision and design, yet they still managed to set prices that were ridiculously high.

But then they went and created the C1 line.  Wow.

I was at my local Tourneau store last weekend and was actually able to try on a C1 (non-tourbillon version), and I can’t tell you how handsome this watch is in real life.  In pictures is looks bulky and overly complex.  On my wrist, though, I fell in love with it.  The model I tried on was priced at $13,000, and although there is no way in hell I could afford that, somehow it seemed incredibly reasonable.  It got even more reasonable when the obsequious salesperson offered me no interest financing on a 12-month term.  Oh wait that means $1,083/month for a watch.  Nevermind.

Roger Dubuis Men's Excalibur Flying Tourbillon

Triple lugs, a fluted bezel, a flying tourbillon AND 45mm in diameter?  This thing and all of its brothers are some of the baddest-looking men’s timepieces available.  I don’t care if most of them cost more than a Lexus (some more than a nice house).  I love them.

Roger Dubuis was founded by, of course, Roger Dubuis and Carlos Dias in the year 1980, the year of my birth coincidentally.  Roger, a developer for Patek Philippe for fourteen years, and Carlos, a designer for Franck Muller, were a match made in heaven.  It’s no surprise that the Richemont Group acquired majority ownership of the company in 2008.  These guys are true masters of both watch design and manufacture.

I can’t quite put my finger on it, but when I look at one of their watches, I just feel like it’s…I don’t know…something special.  I know that statement sounds ridiculous, and it probably is.  Regardless I feel compelled to express my love for this brand.  If money were not an object, I would buy a Roger Dubuis over any other watch out there.  Well maybe I would go for the Arnold & Son ‘True North,’ but I digress.

Ernst Benz Lunar Chronograph

As I am sure everyone has noticed, Ernst Benz has been getting a lot of attention over the last couple of years.  It started with several endorsements by famed athletes, musicians and a superstar chef, but are they here to stay?

To be honest I’m not quite sure what is so great about them.  Their watches remind me a little bit of Tutima but with less originality.  They look like a Swatch; I’m expected to pay $5k+ for a Swatch?  I think not.

It just goes to show you how valuable celebrity endorsements can really be.  I doubt that Ernst Benz would be on anyone’s radar if it weren’t for good media coverage.  To their credit, though, they do have quite a good marketing arm behind them.

Zenith Chronomaster XXT Open

Well since tax time will soon be upon us, I thought I would write about what I might buy IF I weren’t getting raped by the IRS this year. The verdict? I would buy a Zenith Chronomaster XXT Open with a black leather band and silver face. Why you ask? Well here are my reasons:

1) It’s Unusual: I have never in my life come across anyone wearing an XXT. I know many of you probably have, but this watch is rare, and I appreciate that.

2) I can actually afford it (or could afford it if I weren’t getting raped by the government). I don’t know how many of you remember, but these watches were running $8K plus just a couple years ago.

3) Quality: in-house movements like the El Primero are hard to come by. This isn’t a company that buys movements wholesale and then gussies them up with a fancy case and face. The XXT has both of these, but underneath lies a quality movement that, in my humble opinion, is worth quite a bit more than $5,800.

4) It looks like a million dollars. Holy God can I really get a watch this handsome for $5,800? It seems wrong.

5) Versatility: Whether I’m at a dinner party or going to the grocery store, this watch works. Ok it may be a little too fancy for the grocery store, but it’s not overboard. It just works people!

So in the end I can’t afford to buy this magnificent timepiece, but rest assured, if the IRS didn’t exist, I’d be an XXT owner!